I have been to Savusavu for one day, and it was a bonus to have seen it, as I was on IPM, but a kind friend decided not to go out into port, so called me at 11am to let me know I could go in his place. Since I hadn’t expected to be able to go out, I hadn’t researched it, as it would be a port we would stop in only one time.

I am very glad I did get to see it though, as Savusavu is a natural treasure. After taking the ten minute tender ride over to the island, I asked for some info from the apparent info booth just outside the building by the tender. This was actually the tent for Moana tours, which only gave info on the tours they booked. I arrived at 11.45am, as going to open tender, and therefore crew shore leave, took a long time that morning. The morning busier tours had already departed. I spoke with a lady from Moana tours asking about the waterfalls as that was the only I’d already heard about the island. There would be a tour at 12.45pm, if they got more takers for it, but as yet no one had signed up. The cost was $38 USD, but I negotiated it to $30 crew price. There would also be tour at 1pm going to the beach and to see (but not go in) the hot springs and thermal mud pools (these are far too hot for human skin to be in them at over 700 degrees Celsius). Both tours would be the same price and last about two hours. We started to walk towards town to think about it for a few minutes, when a friendly-faced local taxi driver named Avinesh offered to take us the Vuadomo Falls leaving now. We negotiated for him to take us to the falls and also a snorkeling spot for $30 USD each, with the tribute for the falls included and off we went. We stopped at Jean-Michel Cousteau point to find about ten species of reef fish, and not great visibility, but still worth the trip. We spent about half an hour in the water here.

Once dried off, we made the half hour drive the other direction to the Vuadomo Falls. On the way there, Avi took us to Ottota Point to get a detailed vista of the town of Savusavu and its surrounding rainforest and plantations.

We stopped briefly at the village of Vuadomo where a local elderly gentleman offered us a tour of the village. We were short on time, so politely declined, Avi paid our tribute for us being granted access to the falls to him, then we parked at the car park by the start of the walk to the falls themselves. Three local boys of aged about 4-8 came running up the hill smiling and waving, having followed our taxi up here. We followed them along the ten-minute hike through rainforest and plantation to our prize, the gorgeous sight of the Vuadomo Falls at the end, cascading into the cool water of the pool below. We ditched our outerwear and jumped into the water, and Avi joined us. Another large taxi full of ship guests and our musician friend Scott appeared and joined the water antics. Swimming around the pool was refreshing and delightful, and we swam under the flowing heavy flowing falls to try to get to the other side and peer through. We took an array of fun photos splashing around in the water and applauded the local boys as they jumped off the rocks at the side of the pool for their new audience. After about half a hour of playing in the water, we dried off and headed out. We tipped the boys for their aquatic show, and were rewarded with big cheesy happy grins as thanks, took a photo with them (showing them it of course, which they loved), then headed off back into town. Avi dropped us in town, after recommending a place for local fish to us (the fish parcel ladies by the farmer’s market) and a tiny Indian restaurant ‘Mum’s Kitchen’ on the main street, as we’d asked his advice on where to try some Fijian and Indian food. We thanked him, and said our goodbyes after swapping Facebook information to be in touch the next time we were there and to recommend him to other tourists.

Our plan was to get a fish parcel from the ladies near the market to sample something Fijian and very local, then try one dish from the Indian restaurant to try some local Indian fare too.

However, we found the fish parcel ladies only accept Fijian dollars (unless you are happy to pay double the cost in AUD) and we’d ran out, so we walked across the street to the ANZ Band to exchange some currency. Having accomplished that, we started walking back towards the fish parcels, but first went in to see what was on offer in the Farmer’s Market. The sweet tart scent of juicy fresh pineapple at the outside stalls invited us to try some, before we headed inside enjoyed viewing the herbs, species and vegetables that the exotic aromas were coming from. There was also a small craft market in the middle of the produce, and a section at the back was the fish market, cleverly storing the catches of the day in freezers with labels on them so as to keep them fully fresh and hygienic.

From the farmer’s market, we strolled along the line of small restaurants intending to end up at the fish parcel area to procure lunch, when a overpowering scent of freshly baked bread kidnapped our nostrils and commanded us to follow it. We spied a tiny local restaurant with only about four items on the menu, and sniffed inside, and the smell seemed to be coming from there, so we went in to order. We chose fried fish with cassava and piti. The four dishes, which were written on the menu as variations of fish, cassava, piti (which I still don’t know what it is), and coconut milk and all ended up being the same dish no matter what you ordered. We ordered one to share. While waiting on the dish to be ready, enquired as to the source of the fresh bread scent and that we’d like to order whatever is making it. I was told the scent was coming from somewhere behind their building. We were happy with the very homely tasting lightly fried tuna steak that we were presented with, swimming in a delicious pool of think coconut milk sauce, surrounded by spicy green spinach and carrots, and with a side dish filled fill boiled cassava, which is the tropics answer to the potato. We ate the meal with gusto, paid our cheap price of $6 Fijian ($3 USD approx.) for the meal and went on our way to find the real source of the scent. Soon after walking behind the restaurant, we followed the scent, as it got stronger to the source, which was the ‘Savusavu Bread House’. They sold long loaves for 75 cents Fijian, and buns for $2.30 for 12 of them. That was it. We bought two long loaves to bring back to the ship that were still warm and crusty and crunchy and felt and smelled divine.

At this point, our intention had been to go over to ‘Mum’s Kitchen’ and sample an Indian dish too, but the smell of the bread made us decide instead to take the bread on the ship and eat (some of) it with some local jam we bought in Bora Bora.